Before we get started, just another reminder. Please, please, please... follow all safety guidelines provided in the users manual for all power tools. I am not responsible if you cause yourself, or anyone else, bodily harm due to negligence misuse of any equipment.Install a skip tooth blade on your scroll saw. If you don't have access to a skip tooth blade then look for a blade with small teeth, placed close together. The TPI should be in the 15 to 18.5 range. Anything under 15 TPI can chip the acrylic and will be very difficult to cut with.
Start your cut on an easy straight line. Turn on the saw, and gently press the acrylic stack to the blade giving the blade time to work it's way into the acrylic. Once the blade has caught hold, work your way along the design following your line. Turn the acrylic so you're always applying pressure towards the blade teeth. If you apply pressure pushing the blade from the side it will cause friction and begin to melt the acrylic.
As you cut you want to be aware of the acrylic sawdust. The saw dust is a good sign that you're operating the saw correctly. If there is no saw dust, and it starts to feel the blade wants to lift the acrylic, it means your blade is too hot and you're melting the acrylic. Keep the saw running and back the blade out of the design. The blade and the acrylic will need to cool off. The blade can cool fairly quickly, but the acrylic can take 15 minutes or more. I simply rotate my design and begin cutting again in a different location at least one inch from the hot spot.

Work your way around your design avoiding any tight curves until you have rough cut the entire piece. Tight curves tend to get hot very easily so it's best to eliminate the extra acrylic around the tight curve first.As you cut, the blade will create a weak bond between sheets of acrylic and should hold them together. However it's very important if the sheets are shifting at all that you apply more painters tape around the areas you are not cutting on to hold the acrylic sheets firmly together. If the sheets are shifting against each other it will create friction against the blade and melt the acrylic very quickly. ... and it will keep happening over and over again, until you've got hot melted spots all over the entire album.


Next go back and work on the more difficult cuts. For tight curves, cut from one direction to the middle of the tight curve, back the blade out, and then cut from the other direction to complete the cut in the middle of the tightest spot. This really helps to eliminate melting the acrylic.For cuts that come to a point, the same principle applies, start from one side. As you approach the apex of the cut apply very little pressure to the acrylic and don't overshoot your stopping point. As you complete the cut from the other directions make sure you end at exactly the same point. If you cut past the apex it will be very visible on your finished page.

On my next post I'll go over removing any melted acrylic spots and finishing the edges of the album.

















































